I've actually been wondering about this for awhile now.

Can a power supply be too STRONG for a motherboard?


Would a 750w power supply work on a very old motherboard? (5+ years old)

Alrighty. So I want to purchase a newer graphics card, I just have no idea what is supported by my system. I dloaded WinAudit which wouldn't even give me a name for my motherboard. I really want at least 512 MB graphics card, yet I don't know if I should go out and purchase one only to have it not supported.
what should I do????

Well its been about 2 years since I totally overhauled the main PC. And the entire atmosphere is different these days. No nforce, p55s, so I had to make sure I got a good SLI capable + PhysX system. I also decided to have it built by maingear for warranty reasons. At least the bare bones parts since it was a huge change. I was also able to get a custom Nvidia laser etch on it. What can I say? :P

Note: Some components are provided by Nvidia to prepare me for Future 3 Way setup.

Components I chose were.

Intel I7 860
Asus P7P55 WS Supercomputer
3 Way SLI capable + small PhysX PPU
8 Gigs DDR 3 1333 ((unimpressive memory types :P))
Windows 7 64 Bit Ultimate

Haven't done any overclocking yet. I wanna stability test it for a bit.

Crysis is finally conquered or tamed by the 5970; the gpu ran over 70 fps at 1920x1200 resolution 4xAA, more than double the fps of the GTX 295.

techPowerUp :: HIS Radeon HD 5970 CrossFire Review :: Page 7 / 28

For those who remember, I "sold" my secondary PC to a friend a good while back. Well, he didn't have it fully paid off (I told him I'd wait originally), and he recently lost his job (again), so he decided to give it back to me and have me give him and old basic one.

Anyway, I put my E8400 in it, and while I remember it having temperature issues (not necesarilly high temperatures) in when it was in my primary PC (with the same heatsink it has on it now), this seems a bit odd to me.



Maybe I'm just too used to seeing my E8600 and both of it's cores always being at the same exact value (plus or minus two at the most) to think this is acceptable? Or is this really something to be worried about?

Note that it's at stock speed (less actually since Intel SpeedsStep is currently in effect during that screenshot), and it's only at it's listed value of 1.2V (1.2250V set in BIOS). The CPU itself is fine, but the first core is a good 8-10 degrees warmer, and the second is a good 9-11 degrees warmer than the first core. This means there can be a 19-21C difference between the CPU itself and the second core.

I know that the cores themselves usually run warmer, and that one can often be warmer than the other, but I do not ever remember seeing it like this when I used it before (and again, it has the same heatsink now as it did then). The CPU is even lapped, and I've tried fitting the heatsink (Artic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro) twice, and that didn't change it. This is also at idle too. Under load, I imagine a good 10 to 15 degrees will be added, putting one core in questionable range.

Was debating about an i7 since christmas was rolling around, and wanted to get an idea of what i may get, and was curious to what the diffference was between the 1366 and 1156? i know its a different platform but is there any performance differences or anything?

This will be a little long. So bear with me.....

Well, before I got this 22 inch LCD monitor.... When playing games on my Radeon 3850 with 17 inch CRT monitor when playing games, the monitor display would start blinking and stuff (Similar to a TV that's lacking power). And at worse just sort of "shutdown" , meaning the power light in the monitor is blue but there's nothing on the screen just black, but the game continues to play normally. And pressing CTRL-ALT-DEL or the Windows menu button would the display work again. But going back to the game will usually make the symptoms go back again.

Before I thought it's the monitor, then I got lucky and my sisters husband game me his 22 inch LCD, same problem.

I got a new Radeon 4850, still same problem.

My AMD mobo broke down, so changed processor and mobo, still same thing.

And then just today, I changed the PSU. a 600W PSU, and IT STILL HAPPENS!

I'm terribly confused. Does this mean part of our house's electrical system is lacking something causing the problems?

What adds to the confusion is the issue almost NEVER happens during daytime. And my only guess it that because there's almost nothing plugged in and running during the daytime, while at night, there's lots of lights, some TVs (Our employees live here with us, so with cloth irons, radios, cellphone chargers, etc) and other appliances running.

... Or am I just getting insane? >_>

I'm getting frustrated with some keyboard controls, especially with games that require me to press many keys at once, since my keyboard isn't capable of handling too many key presses. (I heard more expensive keyboards can handle this fine, but I decided to go with the controller anyways).

But I'm not sure what controller I should get. Money is not an issue, so just help me find the one that works for this. I noticed 2 of them that kinda stood out, it was a Dual-Action controller, and Rumble Pad-II, but I don't know the difference between them. I also saw one that had the actual PSX buttons on the controller, instead of just being numbered 1-4. Would that one work too? (I'm not sure what the name is though).

As the title states, I'm looking for HDMI capture device for recording footage from my Xbox 360/PS3 ect.

Does anyone know of a device that exists?

I'm pretty new to this.. I have a gamecube emulator that I finally got working on my computer, but during more intense parts of the game, it starts lagging like my computer is having a difficult time loading everything. Is this actually hurting my computer when it happens?

Hello

I have an r4-sdhc card

I got the card, put the software on.

then put the games on like super mario and mario racing, etc castlevania etc

They all work fine.

However, when I try to put more games on, It wont let me. What can I do ?

The only thing I can think of is, when I need to put a new game on, keep formatting the sd card. However , this is rather inconvenient. I did this and it worked, but its annoying. ANd I have to take the save games off the card, put them on my desktop, and put them back after I format the card.

But sometimes, when I want to put a new game on and I put the sd card in my computer it will let me put something new on, but sometimes it won't.

What can I do ?

Generally, cpu fans sit flush to fins in order to apply the static pressure required to push air through them.

The fins are also generally further apart.

The flaw, which i've just realised is that the Curve inwards on the side of the heatsink prevents a single fan from applying enough static pressure to push air through the fins. This is generally not a problem for a push-pull setup, but for those who lack the room to apply this will inevitable hit this.

I would have a feeling that the designers knew this fact, which is why they created the plastic mounting clip which the wing across the top and bottom seals the gap to allow more static pressure.


Notice where the plastic clip covers.

You may have read about it once or twice through the forums by now. Some info on the matter:

It's summer. Temps vary between 22-30ēC each day. My 5600+ has stock cooling. There's a single intake fan on the case, not counting the PSU, and it's a really low output one. I believe that waving my hand produces stronger air currents.

As far as Everest has shown, none of the other components overheats, the GPU barely reaching 70ēC in most cases, while the rest stays below 50ēC(mobo and HDD never got past 47ēC, as far as I remember).

When does it happen? Obviously when CPU intensive processes are open, such as Dolphin, newer PC games(Last Remnant, Overlord II),No$GBA(with zoom, that is) and the like(for some reason PCSX2 runs cooler than all of those, barely getting over 70ēC when I make or load a save state after a while of playing).

In the BIOS, the CPU threshold is at 75ĒC, though I can set it at 70, 80 or 85 if I want to. The first of those is obviously not an option, and I'm not sure raising the threshold would do the CPU any good.

I did a full clean up of my PC the other day, and even replaced the thermal paste, following Cid's advice. Neither really did much.

Cooling, as I said, is stock. Of course, the obvious solution would be to buy a replacement cooler, but what exactly should I go after? Then, there's the price tag thing(50 USD for a cooler? Damn, that's expensive).

So i downloaded this neat program called CPU-Z and it states that my RAM runs at 400 mhz, instead of 800 mhz... hmmmm





And even the receipt states that it runs at 800 mhz... am i missing something?

I was about to start overclocking my pc but i wan't to make sure if the RAM is actually running at 400 or 800 mhz.

Any ideas?

You can see my new build in my signature, i wan't to overclock this to have acceptable speed in Pcsx2, i haven't overclocked anything and i'm new in this subject. I don't wan't to fry this up. I wan't to overclock this at least to 3.2 or 3.3 GHz... (or even more if everything go smooth).

1. What good cooling fan do i need? i suppose the cooling fan my processor came with might not cut it...?

2. Also, the Ati HD4350 was the only card i could afford. Will that card run Pcx2 at acceptable speed, having *not good* but instead *normal-so so* quality at 1024*768 or even 640*480 on high demanding games?

3. And would i need to upgrade the driver/bios/firmware/chipset from my motherboard so the overclocking could be more efficient or something?
I installed the driver/bios/firmware/chipset that came in the CD but do i actually need to *upgrade* it from new updates in the MSI homepage? (I don't want to touch that since my new build is working fine with the drivers that the CD had, but is it necesary to update it for the overclocking procedure?)

As i said, i'm new in the overclocking stuff. Go easy on me.

(Again, remember that english is not my main language so don't go *too* technical on me).