Qarl's mods. They are absolutely gorgeus. They are PC faces-only unfortunately, and not appear on morrowind randomly like in Faces Of Vardenfell. You need to pick one for your own character on character-creation.
Did you use TESTool?
Also check exeopt from
www.angelfire.com/games3/ccn/morrow.html
It patches morrowind to use SSE, and makes morrowind less prone to crashing. On Intel machines, it makes morrowind run slightly faster too.